We
arose at 5am, in the Purnululu NP campground. We took our time
getting up, as our morning sitting-spot was only 100m away, which made a
nice change!
The
morning watch, whilst interesting, was rather short. Although a pair of
Pheasant Coucals mucking about in the bushes, and a new bird for me in
the Northern Rosella provided interest, by six everything had
gone quiet and nothing much was coming in to drink.
So
we set off early, around seven thirty, into the National Park for a walk around
the Bungles themselves. We had chosen 'The Domes' and 'The Cathedral' to
look at, because they were close and we wanted to be on our way.
After
a quick stop to admire the "Elephant Rocks" (which really do look like elephants), we arrived at the walk's
carpark just in time to see a big group of (primarily American) tourists setting off!
Fantastic...
Happily though, being tourists, they had a guide who periodically wold stop
them and talk about the various interesting things, so we overtook them fairly
quickly. Whilst I am sure the guides would be fun and informative, I really prefer to notice, and subsequently look at things with my own eyes. Maybe I miss some stuff, but overall it's a more enjoyable experience.
The
scenery in the Bungles is stunning, and Cathedral Gorge is
breathtaking. The natural silence, coupled with the vast echoing of any small movement, provided an interesting balance. We were lucky to have the place to ourselves for half an hour or so. It was nice to sit up on the
rock wall and just think quietly for a while.
On the way out, we ran into the first of the (now scattered) tourist group wandering up the hill. Not to be unkind, but I was happy we left before they arrived. Places like that are best enjoyed on your own, and in those rare few spots where, if you don't move, it's completely silent, it's nice not to have people "testing out" the echo all around you.
The
non-birding stop over, we got back in the car and drove the two hours
over the extremely rough track out of Purnululu NP, stopping only twice; once for a party of Spinifex Pigeons moving around a rocky hillside by the road, and once to
look at a Jabiru (or Black-necked Stork, if you ABSOLUTELY must) which
promptly hid behind a large brown bull which was standing in the same creekbed. We moved on quickly.
By
the standards of the trip so far, it was quite a short drive from
Warnum to Kununurra, where we had decided to spend a night. Although we were held up for a while, with the first and (thankfully) only flat tyre.... no, really it was more of an exploded tyre... of the trip. The
campground was excellent, and we secured a place directly on
the waterline of the lake. Whilst we got a great view of the sunset,
after dark the bug swarms were out in force, and remained unfazed by
aeroguard.
Exploded tyre
Rufous-throated Honeyeater in the Kununurra campground
Having
set up camp, Derek and I went for a drive to the Hoochery, A big farm
with various crops, the Hoochery is situated a couple of km out of
Kununurra, and has been a reliable spot in the past for finches,
including the Yellow-rumped Mannikin, our main target.
Half
distracted by an absolutely stunning sunset (of course I had forgotten
to bring my short lens), we saw no finches of any kind - but we did get a
couple of shots of Red-backed Kingfisher on the power lines, and
Australian Bustard in the fields.
Red-backed Kingfisher
On
the drive back, we were able to view the spectacle of several thousand
(if not hundred thousands) of fruit bats, spiraling in vast swarms from
their daytime roosts by the lake. During the night, all the time we were
sitting outside, you could glance up at any moment and be able to see
four or five huge black shapes passing over.
Just
before I went to bed, I noticed a sign at the corner of the campground.
Wandering over, it said that swimming was at ones' own risk due to
freshwater crocodiles in the lake. My swag was set up less than 5m from
the water. Hmm.
September 10th
White-throated Honeyeater
We arose to a stunning sunrise over lake Kununurra. No crocodiles ate me in my sleep, so I was in a mood to enjoy it!
We
set off quickly for the Hoochery, for a last-ditch attempt at the
elusive Yellow-rumped Mannikin. This was our only confirmed site, and
this was attempt 3. Our hopes weren't high.
Continuing
to enjoy the sunrise, we took a short detour to the Golf course, hoping
perhaps for photos of White-browed Crake to start the morning. No Crakes were seen, but some Crimson and Star Finches provided interest.
We
moved on to our main destination. On the way, we saw a MASSIVE flock of
Magpie Geese, at least 6,000 strong - the paddock was a big one, and it
was fully black and white, with more taking off and landing all the
time.
To the soundtrack of bird-scarers going off and the honks of the geese, we moved on.
After
half an hours' driving around the crop paddocks, we were getting a bit
bored. Derek saw 20 or so finches fly into a patch of Sorghum, and as we
drew up and got out, bird-scarer went off nearby.
Suddenly,
the sorghum heads came to life. An enormous flock of tiny birds lifted
from the crop, and wheeled like starlings in the sky for a few seconds
while I frantically snapped photos in the hope of identifying them. We
were both awed by the sheer numbers, at least 2000 and more like 2500 birds, as they settled back into the
grasses, but Derek quickly pointed out that they were likely to be all Chestnut-breasted Mannikins, and if we were lucky there might be a couple, ten or fifteen, Yellow-rumps among them.
Mannikin flock at the Hoochery in Kununurra. These photos show less than 1/4 of the flock
I
pressed the review button on my camera. The shot opened, showing a full
screen of pale yellowish and grey shapes, and among them, the darker
colour of Chestnuts. We raced into the field, and spent half an hour
absorbed in photographing the birds as they fed, only mildly concerned
by our presence. The flock was 3/4 or so Yellow Rumps, with a large but
not overwhelming number of chestnuts. It only takes one bird to tick a
lifer - if only you could tick a lifer for each individual!!
Flushed
with success, we left the flock. Australian Bustards were in the same
spot as last night, and we headed for home exultant.
Australian Bustard
Sacred Kingfisher on the way out of Kununurra
We
packed up and hit the road for the last really big drive. I fell asleep
quickly, and didn't wake up until we hit Timber Creek - so I missed a
fair bit of the journey (and no doubt the Grey Falcon pair that were probably hunting by the roadside and giving awesome views).
We
arrived in the late afternoon at our next stop. Edith Falls campground,
or Lelyin as it's called, is an absolutely beautiful spot. Green grass!
And plenty of birds just within the camp, including Northern Rosellas.
Cockatiel, seen at a brief stop in a dry creekbed going into Edith falls
We
followed signs to a massive, lake - like, swimming hole, in a beautiful
gorge. The water was warm in patches, indicating springs, and full of
small, zebra-striped fish. The swim was enjoyable and refreshing, and
only later we found out there are freshwater crocs in there! Not that
they're anything to worry about, but it's nice to know before going and splashing around!
That
night we were treated to a short slideshow presentation by the local
ranger, an unexpected pleasure. He showed us some of the cultural
significance and wildlife of the region. Leichhardt's Grasshopper,
Gouldian Finch, and the bird we had come for, Hooded Parrot, were all
featured.
Bush
Stone Curlews called during the night, but it was the bloody fruit bats
noisily squabbling in the tree above me that kept me awake!
Bush-stone Curlews
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